Review: Atelier Wen Ancestra Launch Edition

Atelier Wen unveils the new Ancestra Launch Edition. Our complete review with exclusive pictures and full details of the Ancestra Jiāo. Price: €5,100

Three years after the introduction of the Perception, a model that generated significant buzz among watch enthusiasts, Atelier Wen now unveils the launch edition of the Ancestra, the first model in a completely new collection whose name pays homage to China’s rich artistic and cultural heritage.

Three years after the introduction of the Perception, a model that generated significant buzz among watch enthusiasts, Atelier Wen now unveils the launch edition of the Ancestra, the first model in a completely new collection whose name pays homage to China’s rich artistic and cultural heritage.

The debut timepiece, the Ancestra Jiāo (蛟), offers a fresh and original interpretation of the classic dress watch, distinguished by a striking hand-hammered dial enriched with multiple layers of Grand Feu enamel. 

Its elegant case draws inspiration from the flowing silhouette of a historic Hongshan jade artifact depicting a dragon, the mythical creature that lends the watch its name.

True to Atelier Wen’s identity, which blends French and Chinese influences (“Atelier” means “workshop” in French, while “Wén” represents “culture” in Chinese), the Ancestra Jiāo is powered by a newly developed, high-performance movement extensively customised by the French manufacture Pequignet.

We had the opportunity to preview this captivating timepiece and are delighted to share our hands-on review, along with exclusive pictures, on its launch day.

When you handle the watch, your eyes are immediately drawn to the exceptionally detailed Grand Feu enamel dial. This is crafted by the workshop of Kong Lingjun, one of China’s very finest and most renowned enamel maisons.  

Kong’s workshop stands out in China for focusing almost entirely on making enamel watch dials, rather than other traditional uses of enamel. This specialisation and level of expertise led to it being officially recognised in 2021 as the “China Enamel Watch (Beijing) Manufacturing Center” by the China Horologe Association, the national authority for the watch industry.

Executed in a fumé effect that transitions from pale silver at the centre to deep cobalt at the edge, subtly reminiscent of a foamy sea, this Grand Feu enamel dial features meticulous hand-hammering technique (martelé) on its 925 silver dial base. 

Maintaining consistent depth and pattern in the hammering requires meticulous work. The finer texture makes it more difficult, and because of Kong’s high standards, each finished dial base takes about two days to complete.

The enamel layers begin as a raw mix of quartz, feldspar, borax, and other minerals, which are melted in a high-temperature furnace and then rapidly cooled in water to form glass-like fragments. These are ground by hand, sieved into a fine powder, mixed with water, and applied as a paste onto the dial blanks.

After each layer dries, it is fired at temperatures between 750 and 850°C. This process is repeated five more times until the desired colours are achieved. 

The hammered texture of the dial base adds difficulty, as it can warp under heat. The gradient effect of the dial also presents a challenge, requiring careful control to create smooth, even bands of colour.

Once the ideal tone is reached, the dial is polished to achieve the flat, glossy finish that Grand Feu enamel is known for. Each dial takes about 20 days to complete and has a failure rate of around 50%. Due to the artisanal nature of the process, the gradient of this “sea” varies slightly in each iteration, making every watch unique.

One detail we absolutely loved is the original handset, with its notably thick 0.45 mm profile that adds even more depth to the dial. 

Plated in rhodium, the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands feature a frosted centre and wide, concave, mirror-polished bevels that catch the light through a refined interplay of textures.

The dial is further enhanced by hand-drawn hour markers by Hong Kong calligrapher Elaine Wong, appearing at odd-numbered positions and alternating with baguette-cut diamonds for understated elegance.

蛟 (JIĀO) is also offered in a variant with Western-Arabic numerals at the even positions. 

These alternate once again with diamonds and are rendered in a custom font designed by artist Lee Yuen-Rapati, drawing inspiration from traditional Chinese bamboo paintings.

Both versions are protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal with five layers of anti-reflective coating, ensuring durability and visual clarity.

Measuring 38 mm in diameter and 11.3 mm in height (including the sapphire crystal), the case is crafted from 904L stainless steel. 

Its detached lugs, shaped after the flowing curves of a jade dragon, are externally bolted to the case and secured internally with screws. 

Each bolt is engraved with a traditional Chinese 回纹 (huí wén) motif, a squared spiral symbolising continuity and harmony.

The case’s refined silhouette is enhanced by the interplay of brushed and polished surfaces, with exceptionally sharp transitions between finishes made possible by the lug’s detached architecture. 

Decorated with the brand's symbol, the screw-down crown contributes to ensuring water resistance up to a pressure of 10 ATM (approximately corresponding to 100 metres / 330 feet).

The watch comes with a hand-stitched full-grain leather strap, featuring a luxurious Epsom leather upper and a Zermatt lining of alpine calfskin from Tanneries Haas. 

It fastens with a stainless steel buckle, finished with mirror-polished bevels and finely brushed surfaces. The lug width is 20 mm, and alternative strap options are available.

Thanks to its well-proportioned case and carefully considered lug design, the watch wears elegantly and comfortably on the wrist. 

For reference, the wrist shown in our photos measures 17.8 cm (7 inches) in circumference.

Ancestra marks Atelier Wen’s first collaboration outside the Chinese watchmaking ecosystem, powered by a heavily customised version of Pequignet’s Calibre EPM03.

This automatic movement runs at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a 65-hour power reserve. 

It contains 21 jewels and delivers chronometer-grade precision, regulated to -4/+6 seconds per day with an average deviation of just ±2 seconds, meeting the strict standards of the Observatoire Chronométrique de Besançon.

Instead of relying solely on traditional gear-based winding, the movement features a bi-directional, pawl-based “Pellaton” winding system transmitting energy in both directions. This design increases efficiency and durability by transmitting energy more effectively and reducing stress on components.

A patented tooth profile within the winding system further improves performance, using sloped teeth on the winding pinion to enhance energy transfer and minimise wear.

To align with Atelier Wen’s mission of celebrating Chinese culture, the brand worked closely with Pequignet to refine the movement’s appearance. 

For this launch edition, the movement inside 蛟 (JIĀO) features a micro-etched three-quarter bridge inspired by 天问 (Questions to Heaven), a classical Chinese poem by Qu Yuan (340–278 BCE) composed as a series of philosophical questions posed to the cosmos.

The bridge is intricately finished, complemented by a black-polished ratchet return wheel and balance bridge that stand out against the engraved text. A skeletonised tungsten rotor, plated in 1.5 microns of 5N rose gold, allows a clear view of the movement through the sapphire caseback.

The new Ancestra Launch Edition by Atelier Wen is priced at €5,100 / US$5,850 (excluding sales taxes and duties) and will be available exclusively for pre-order during a 7-day period, after which it will be permanently discontinued, underscoring the rarity of this refined creation.

With the Ancestra Jiāo, Atelier Wen delivers a compelling evolution of the dress watch, one that embraces a deep respect for Chinese cultural heritage while achieving an outstanding level of craftsmanship, even more impressive when considering the competitive price positioning.  

From the intricately hand-hammered and enamelled dial to the sculptural case and refined movement finishing, every element has been carefully considered and beautifully executed.

A statement of intent and identity, this launch edition signals Atelier Wen’s growing maturity as a watchmaker capable of producing work that is both artistically expressive and technically remarkable. atelierwen.com