IWC pairs Armor Gold with Obsidian dial in Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph IW394009

IWC introduces the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph IW394009 in Armor Gold with Obsidian dial. Price: €151,000

IWC has presented the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph, an exclusive timepiece that combines a flying minute tourbillon with a chronograph function and a retrograde date display.

Produced in a limited edition of 100 pieces, this model is crafted from 18-carat Armor Gold, a material offering significantly greater hardness than conventional gold alloys.

Protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, the dial stands out with its Obsidian colour—one of the new hues introduced by IWC in 2024 as part of the Portugieser collection revamp.

The dial is crafted through a complex process involving 60 individual steps. Fifteen layers of transparent lacquer create a sense of visual depth. It is complemented by gold-plated hands and solid gold appliques.

The chronograph and retrograde date displays are slightly recessed and positioned at 12 o’clock and 9 o’clock, respectively.

The current date is indicated by a small hand pointing to an arched scale ranging from the 1st to the 31st. At the end of the month, the hand jumps back to the starting position.

Improving accuracy by counteracting the effects of gravity on the oscillating system, the flying tourbillon—a balance wheel rotating on its axis within a small cage—appears at 6 o’clock. It comprises 56 individual parts and weighs only 0.675 grams.

Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 metres / 100 feet), the 43.5 mm x 15.9 mm case houses the IWC-manufactured calibre 89900. 

This movement beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a 68-hour power reserve. Thanks to the integrated tourbillon stop, the mechanism can be brought to a complete halt, allowing the wearer to set the time with down-to-the-second accuracy.

The pallet lever and escape wheel are made of silicon and coated with IWC’s proprietary Diamond Shell technology, a treatment that reduces friction and enhances energy transmission.

Comprising a total of 375 individual components, the movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. Decorations include Geneva stripes and circular graining. The oscillating weight of the automatic winding system is crafted from solid gold.

Fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Italian leather artisan Santoni, secured with an 18-carat Armor Gold folding clasp, the new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold, ref. IW394009, is priced at €151,000 / US$145,000. iwc.com

Suggested reading:

- The history of the IWC Portugieser