MB&F introduces SP One, a 38 mm watch that marks the debut of its new Special Projects collection. In rose gold or platinum. Prices from €64,000
MB&F introduces SP One, a 38 mm mechanical watch that marks the debut of its new Special Projects collection.
Initially developed under the working name “Three Circles,” the SP One features a three-dimensional construction centred on a trio of suspended elements: the mainspring barrel, balance wheel, and time display.
These components are arranged to appear as if floating within the case, made possible by the use of curved sapphire domes and conical gearing.
With its pebble-shaped case measuring 38 mm in diameter and 12 mm in height, the SP One is MB&F’s smallest and thinnest watch to date. Its compact case features a smooth, rounded form, with no bezel and individually attached lugs.
Water resistance is ensured up to a pressure of 3 bar (approximately 30 metres / 100 feet).
The SP One launches in two editions: 18K rose gold with an anthracite flange, and platinum 950 with a sky-blue flange.
Positioned between the experimental Horological Machines and the more traditional Legacy Machines, the SP One introduces a new line in the brand’s portfolio: the Special Projects collection.
According to MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser, the idea behind the SP One was to create a watch that departed from expectations, one that embraced a more classic and refined aesthetic. The initial concept dates back to 2018, beginning with a hand-drawn sketch that outlined the three key elements, suspended within the case.
The goal was to achieve an understated elegance, maintaining MB&F’s core identity while introducing a more restrained approach. The early design explored the balance between complexity and simplicity, aiming for a classic appearance without compromising the brand’s three-dimensional construction.
Watch designer Eric Giroud, a frequent MB&F collaborator, was involved in developing the project. Together, they refined the concept through multiple design phases before handing it over to the engineering team, who translated the vision into a fully functional timepiece.
Thanks to the sapphire glass on both the front and back, the barrel, balance wheel, and dial appear to defy gravity. The bridges are practically invisible.
Visually, the three elements have identical circumferences, adding complexity to the movement's design. The single-barrel architecture is elegantly suspended at 10 o'clock while the captivating balance wheel oscillates at 2 o’clock.
At 6 o'clock, the dial is tilted just right to highlight MB&F's expertise in conical gearing.
This architecture, though technically complex to achieve, reveals a structure that is simple and distinctive, making the functioning of a mechanical watch surprisingly easy to understand. The bevelled flange surrounds the movement, resembling an amphitheatre.
The sapphire crystal caseback showcases the meticulous hand finishing of each component of the hand-wound SP One calibre, including internal bevel angles, polished bevels, and hand-made engravings.
All wheels are hand-angled, with prominent chatons. Surfaces are enhanced by a carefully executed combination of satin, polished, and micro-blasted finishes.
Operating at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour), this 191-part hand-wound movement offers a practical 72-hour power reserve (or three full days).
Paired with a calfskin strap and rose gold or white gold pin buckle (lug width is 18 mm), the MB&F SP One will retail at CHF 58,000 + VAT / €64,000 + VAT / US$76,000 in rose gold, or CHF 63,000 + VAT / €69,000 + VAT / US$82,000 in platinum 950. mbandf.com
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