Universal Genève has reintroduced one of its most emblematic models, the Polerouter, presenting a contemporary interpretation that remains aligned with the design and technical principles of the original.
First launched in 1954, the Polerouter was created for Scandinavian Airlines’ pioneering transpolar flights between Europe and the United States.
Designed by a young Gérald Genta, the watch combined robustness and precision with a distinctive aesthetic.
A vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter SAS - 1954
Over time, the model became one of the defining creations of Universal Genève, also marking an important milestone in movement development with the introduction of the Microtor calibre in 1958, then among the thinnest automatic movements available.
The new Polerouter has been conceived as a direct evolution rather than a reinterpretation, preserving key design elements such as the crosshair dial, the outer dial ring and the twisted lugs, while subtly refining proportions and finishes.
At the centre of the relaunch is a newly developed automatic Microtor movement, the calibre UG-110. Measuring 3.8 mm in thickness, it operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
Designed with a 3/4 rotor and ball-bearing system, the movement combines compactness with modern reliability, while maintaining the technical lineage of the original Microtor calibres.
The main Prêt-à-Porter collection is offered in a 39 mm case with a thickness of 9.5 mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.6 mm.
Available in stainless steel or 18k rose gold, these models are water-resistant to 100 metres / 330 feet and fitted with cambered sapphire crystals on both sides.
These versions incorporate a date display and are powered by the UG-110 calibre with hours, minutes, seconds and date functions.
Dials are executed with a dual finish combining sunray satin and circular brushing, framed by a sunray inner bezel. The crosshair layout remains central to the design, structuring the dial into balanced quadrants.
Variations include a black dial in stainless steel with a black alligator leather strap (ref. UGPO001), a blue dial in stainless steel with a stainless steel bracelet (ref. UGPO002), and a brown dial in rose gold with a brown alligator leather strap (ref. UGPO003), with prices of CHF 14,000, CHF 16,000 and CHF 32,000, respectively.
The stainless steel bracelet features a four-link “brick” construction inspired by historical Gay Frères designs, updated with a butterfly clasp and micro-adjustment system.
Alongside the 39 mm models, the collection includes a 37 mm version measuring 9.35 mm in thickness and 46.2 mm lug-to-lug. These references maintain the same movement, the 4 Hz UG-110 calibre.
The display is limited to hours, minutes and seconds, without a date.
Available in stainless steel or 18k rose gold, the 37 mm models include both classical and more decorative executions.
The steel version features a black dial with a dual finish (ref. UGPO007) and is priced at CHF 14,000, while the rose gold model is offered with a white mother-of-pearl dial and a diamond-set bezel (ref. UGPO009), retailing at CHF 34,000.
Water resistance remains at 100 metres / 330 feet.
Expanding beyond the core collection, Universal Genève introduces capsule editions that reinterpret the Polerouter through materials and colour.
The 39 mm Hardstone models feature stone dials in lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye or bull’s eye, combining natural textures with the structured crosshair layout.
These references share the same case dimensions and movement specifications as the standard 39 mm models, in steel or rose gold, with prices starting at CHF 20,500.
In 37 mm, the Camaïeu editions explore tonal variations across the dial, with each quadrant rendered in graduated shades.
These models are available in stainless steel or 18k rose gold, including gem-set versions, and retain the same technical specifications as the standard 37 mm references. Prices start at CHF 17,000.
With this relaunch, Universal Genève returns to one of its most recognisable designs, maintaining continuity with the original Polerouter while introducing a new movement and updated construction details. universalgeneve.com
Suggested reading:
Prices are 10x too high. Ridiculous!
ReplyDeletePerhaps you meant they are priced 10% higher than they should be, but claiming a 10x markup is simply not realistic. We are talking about watches with high-end finishing and a sophisticated in-house movement.
Delete