Review: Omega Railmaster, 2025 Edition

1 0 Wednesday, 6 August 2025 Edit this post

Originally launched in 1957 alongside the Seamaster 300 and the Speedmaster, the Omega Railmaster was the most understated of the trilogy but no less innovative.

Designed for professionals exposed to strong magnetic fields such as railway workers, technicians and engineers, it was Omega’s first watch to feature a double-case construction with a soft iron inner shell, enabling resistance to magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss. This was a remarkable feat at the time, especially as most watches offered protection of only around 60 gauss.

Interestingly, despite its technical focus, the original Railmaster did not carry any mention of "antimagnetic" on the dial. This minimalist approach reflected the watch’s utilitarian spirit, focused on reliability rather than display.

Over the years, the Railmaster has remained a quiet force within Omega’s portfolio. It was never as widely celebrated as the Speedmaster but has been appreciated by those who value tool-watch purity and functional design.

With the 2025 update, Omega reasserts this legacy through a new generation of Railmaster models that honour the original’s ethos while elevating its specifications to modern standards.

A streamlined case, refined dial gradients and the latest Master Chronometer movements certified by METAS confirm its place among the most technically advanced time-only watches in its category.

We recently had the opportunity to spend several days with one of the new references, the Seamaster Railmaster ref. O235.12.38.20.06.001, which features a sophisticated grey dial on a leather strap.

In the following review, we take a closer look at its design, technical specifications, and overall character through live photographs and our impressions.

The watch comes in a compact 38 mm by 12.36 mm case crafted from 316L stainless steel, valued for its corrosion resistance and high lustre after polishing.

The full length of the case, measured from top to bottom lugs, is 44.92 mm.

Defined by alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces, the case lines have been refined to align with the symmetrical design and style of the Seamaster Aqua Terra collection (see our review of the Aqua Terra Shades 38 mm as a reference).

This design approach has been applied to all Railmaster models since 2003, ensuring continuity between the two lines.

The conical crown, embossed with the Omega symbol, screws down to ensure water resistance to 15 bar (150 metres / 500 feet).

This level of performance makes the watch well suited for daily wear as well as activities like diving and adventure.

With its compact case and proportions in line with current size trends, the watch fits most wrists comfortably.

For reference, the wrist in our photos measures 17.8 cm / 7 inches in circumference.

Our test model came with a soft black calf leather strap, secured by a stainless steel folding clasp, but Omega also offers a refined stainless steel bracelet with redesigned links and improved integration. The lug width is 19 mm.

Protected by a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, the dial features an unusual grey to black gradient, a subtle departure from Omega’s usual dial finishes.

The three central rhodium-plated hands are filled with white Super-LumiNova that glows green in the dark, while the Arabic numerals and triangular indexes glow blue.

The broad arrow tip is used exclusively for the minute hand, another distinctive detail typical of the Aqua Terra line.

Text on the dial has been pared down to the essentials, displaying only the Omega logo and Railmaster name. The absence of a date results in a cleaner, more balanced layout.

The case back features a wave-edged design, with a transparent sapphire crystal revealing the advanced automatic movement. Its rhodium-plated finish is decorated with Geneva waves in arabesque.

Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 beats at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz) and is equipped with two barrels mounted in series, providing a power reserve of 55 hours.

Master Chronometer certification indicates that each watch and its movement have passed rigorous testing by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), ensuring the highest standards of quality, precision and magnetic resistance.

To achieve this certification, the movement is first tested by the Official Swiss Chronometer Control (COSC) under precision criteria of -4 to +6 seconds per day. The complete watch and movement then undergo eight additional tests set by METAS, which require accuracy between 0 and +6 seconds per day.

Thanks to several components made from antimagnetic materials, including a silicon balance spring, the Railmaster withstands magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, offering fifteen times the resistance of the original Railmaster models.

A sturdy balance bridge with twin supports ensures optimal protection against shocks.

The new Omega Seamaster Railmaster with grey dial is priced at €5,700 / US$5,400 on a leather strap (ref. O235.12.38.20.06.001) or €6,100 / US$5,800 on a stainless steel bracelet (ref. O235.10.38.20.06.001).

For those preferring a warmer dial tone and a touch of vintage charm, Omega offers a version with a beige dial and small seconds display. This model is available on a leather strap (ref. O235.12.38.20.13.001) for €6,400 / US$6,000 or on a steel bracelet (ref. O235.10.38.20.13.001) for €6,800 / US$6,400.

With this latest generation, Omega continues to refine one of its most enduring tool watches, blending robust technical performance with contemporary aesthetic appeal.

The Railmaster remains a robust, everyday companion, executed with precision and equipped with the brand’s most advanced watchmaking technologies. omegawatches.com