Hands-on Review: Nomos Glashütte Tangente neomatik 41 Update ruthenium

Introduced by Nomos Glashütte at the beginning of 2019, the Tangente neomatik 41 Update ruthenium is a remarkable addition to the Tangente line, the best seller of the German brand in the last 25 years as well as their first timepiece. A recognizable yet clean design, the overall quality and the extreme versatility are some of the key reasons for this long-lasting success.

Compared to the other models of the Tangente family, the Tangente neomatik 41 Update ruthenium is larger, with a diameter of 40.5 mm (vs 33, 35, 38 or 39 mm).

The enlarged size does not alter the nice proportions of the watch which is just 7.9 mm-thick thanks to the slimness of the ultra thin movement (3.6 mm) that we will describe in detail later. The bipartite construction of the case guarantees waterproofness to 5 ATM, which makes the watch suitable for showering.

Crafted from stainless steel with an elegant polished finish, the round case with almost no bezel frames a galvanized dial refined with ruthenium. This rare element, member of the platinum group, is characterized by fascinating dark nuances that shift between dark gray and golden brown depending on the surrounding environment, more grayish in daylight, more brownish under artificial lights.

Completed by polished and rhodium-plated baton hour and minutes hands, a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock and the renowned Tangente typography, the refined dial has another peculiarity that underlines the design-oriented character of the watch: the innovative date indication, displayed in the outer ring, that uses two contrasting red markings to frame the current date.

This unusual and clever solution is made possible by the in-house built DUW 6101 caliber, whose quick-change date function can be easily and intuitively set with a slight turn of the crown in either direction. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, this self-winding movement offers 42 hours of power reserve.

Just like the front side, the back side is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal that makes it possible to admire the details and finishes of this movement: the typical three-quarter plate architecture, the ribbing polish and the thermally-blued screws as well as the tempered blue balance spring denoting the proprietary Nomos escapement. This innovative swing system, which gives this model the additional title of ‘neomatik’, ensures the high precision and reliability of the movement. The bidirectional winding rotor is enriched by gold-plated embossing.

The DUW 6101 is the first Nomos caliber with three crown positions. In the home position, the watch can be eventually wound by hand; in the second position, the date can be set forwards or backwards quickly; in the third position, you can set the time.

The Tangente neomatik 41 Update ruthenium is thin enough to slip under a shirt cuff and very comfortable on the wrist thanks to the smooth yet robust remborde strap crafted from Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan and secured to the wrist by a polished steel pin buckle with the engraved logo of the brand.

Delivered in an elegant full grain leather wallet, the new Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update ruthenium is available with a price of Euro 3,200 which is certainly in line with the high quality of this timepiece offering an in-house manufacture movement, a distinctive style and flawless finishes. nomos-glashuette.com