A new independent name enters the world of haute horlogerie with a clear focus on chronometric innovation.
Founded by Swiss watchmaking engineer Mathieu Cleguer, Cleguer Horology makes its debut with the Inspiration One Souscription, a manually wound timepiece developed around a proprietary escapement and an architecture conceived to reveal the mechanics that matter while deliberately leaving others hidden from view.
Rather than launching an extensive collection, Mathieu Cleguer begins with a single watch intended to establish the technical and aesthetic foundations of the brand.
Created in collaboration with designer Lee Yuen-Rapati, the Inspiration One combines traditional decorative techniques with contemporary movement engineering, placing chronometric performance at the centre of its philosophy.
Housed in a 38.5 mm titanium case measuring 12 mm in thickness and water-resistant to 30 metres / 100 feet, the Inspiration One presents a striking three-dimensional movement architecture where the calibre itself becomes part of the dial.
An off-centred Grand Feu champlevé enamel subdial positioned at 2 o'clock displays the hours and minutes, while an elongated central seconds hand sweeps across the movement.
Lettering has intentionally been kept to a minimum, with the brand name engraved discreetly inside the case flank rather than displayed prominently on the dial.
A snailed barrel occupies the left side of the dial and incorporates a 36-hour power reserve indicator, while an oversized 12.9 mm balance wheel, beating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), dominates the lower section of the display.
The movement has been designed to create a strong sense of depth, descending through multiple visual layers from the central seconds to the barrel bridge and finally to the mainplate.
Components crafted from nickel silver receive champagne and rhodium finishes that accentuate the architecture while preserving an overall restrained appearance.
Turning the watch over reveals the remaining mechanical landscape, including the gear train together with an oversized ratchet and click system topped by a Maltese Cross stopwork.
At the heart of the movement lies the proprietary Innate Escapement, the result of five years of research and development.
Conceived as a modern reinterpretation of the historic natural escapement, it resolves that system's well-known inability to self-start.
Instead of relying on direct impulse transmission, Mathieu Cleguer developed an indirect tangential impulse delivered through a central lever, combining the dual escape-wheel architecture of the natural escapement with principles derived from Charles Fasoldt's escapement. The result improves efficiency while incorporating a hacking seconds mechanism for precise time setting.
Several subtle details reflect Mathieu Cleguer's personal inspiration.
The deep purple colour selected for the inaugural Souscription series expresses a shade he associates with creativity, depth and refinement, while the three dots positioned beneath the 12 o'clock marker reference both his Breton heritage and the three principal elements visible on the dial: the barrel, the enamel dial and the oversized balance wheel.
Cleguer Horology has chosen a deliberately limited production strategy, capping the Inspiration One at just 60 pieces in total. The first 12 titanium 'Souscription' watches, priced at an indicative €98,500, have already been allocated to collectors, with deliveries scheduled for the second half of 2026.
Beyond this inaugural series, the model will be produced in batches of 12 across four additional case metals, including 20 movements reserved for bespoke commissions.
In total, only 80 Inspiration One watches will be manufactured, with additional components retained to ensure long-term servicing and support for collectors.
Entirely funded through a subscription model rather than external investment, the project reflects Mathieu Cleguer's desire to preserve complete creative independence while establishing a direct relationship with collectors. cleguer.com
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