The MB&F x Bulgari Serpenti reimagines the iconic Serpenti combining sophisticated design with cutting-edge engineering. Prices from €140,000
While MB&F and Bulgari may not seem to have much in common, they are united by a shared ability to challenge watchmaking conventions. Following their 2021 collaboration, which resulted in the MB&F x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra, they now present the latest result of their creative union: the MB&F x Bulgari Serpenti.
For this second collaboration, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bulgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F, chose to reinterpret one of Bulgari’s most famous historical creations – Serpenti, which first appeared in Bulgari’s creations in 1948 – and reimagined it within the three-dimensional mechanical world of MB&F haute horlogerie.
Transforming Serpenti—an emblem of rebirth and metamorphosis—into a Horological Machine required a complete redevelopment of this iconic piece, encompassing not only mechanical engineering and movement design but also the case design and manufacturing process.
Hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models were necessary to achieve the final, stunning design.
Unlike a traditional round case, which offers only a few dimensions to work with, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti case presented a far more complex challenge. Like a car, its appearance changes dramatically depending on whether you view it from the front, side, top, or back. Any adjustment to one curve or angle, while improving one perspective, could negatively affect another, making the design process particularly demanding.
But the design was just part of the challenge—engineering and manufacturing it posed a whole new set of obstacles. Once the aesthetics were perfected, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti case had to be engineered and produced, and this involved overcoming several additional difficulties.
The case is defined by complex curves, which present a machining challenge. These curves extend to the five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and the multi-faceted rear section. Each crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating on both sides, allowing for large openings that showcase the movement.
This combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only exceptionally difficult to machine and finish, but also presents significant challenges in achieving 30-meter water resistance for the 53 mm x 39 mm x 18 mm case.
Conceived and developed in-house by MB&F, the hand-wound movement brings Serpenti to life by animating its eyes, the revolving hour and minute domes: the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes.
The paper-thin domes are machined from solid aluminium to make them as light as possible, requiring innovative milling processes. Both are adorned with hand-applied Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in low-light conditions.
Between the eyes, the oversized 14 mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws beats at the frequency rate of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour). It is firmly held in place thanks to a three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the two partners’ names.
Separate crowns are used for winding and time-setting, integrated into the rear lugs of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti.
Turning the machine over reveals the power reserve indicator, along with some of the other 310 components of the hand-finished movement.
The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is available in three versions, each limited to just 33 pieces. The first comes in a grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes. The second is housed in an 18K rose gold case and features green eyes, and a third version is crafted from black PVD-coated stainless steel and comes with red eyes.
As the watchmakers at MB&F can only craft and assemble six to eight Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per month, all 99 pieces will take over a year to deliver.
The retail price for the titanium and stainless steel versions is CHF 132,000 + VAT / €140,000 + VAT / US$148,000, while the 18K gold version is priced at CHF 152,000 + VAT / €161,000 + VAT / US$170,000. mbandf.com and bulgari.com
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