Audemars Piguet introduces a new generation of selfwinding perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 7138. One Code 11.59 and two Royal Oak models. Prices.
To kick off its 150th anniversary celebrations, Audemars Piguet introduces a new generation of selfwinding perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 7138. Designed for greater ease of use, it allows all functions to be adjusted via a single crown, replacing the traditional correctors on the case side.
This new movement debuts in a 41 mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet in 18-carat white gold, as well as two 41 mm Royal Oak models available in stainless steel or 18-carat sand gold. Additionally, three corresponding “anniversary” limited editions of 150 pieces each incorporate subtle design elements honouring the Manufacture’s 150-year legacy. Developed over five years, Calibre 7138 is protected by five patents.
The new crown features four distinct positions. In the first, turning it clockwise winds the watch. Pulling the crown out one step (position 2) allows the user to set the date clockwise and adjust the month and the leap year in the opposite direction. By pulling the crown out again (position 3), the user can set the time bidirectionally. The last position is reached by pushing the crown back one step (position 2’) to set the day and week clockwise and the moon phases counterclockwise.
Despite its intuitive operation, this innovative system relies on a sophisticated mechanism driven by a lever and wandering wheels that engage with the various calendar wheels in positions 2 and 2’. This advancement is protected by two patents: one for the crown correction system with a 2’ position and another for the month and date adjustment via the crown.
The dial and subdials have been rearranged to enhance legibility, symmetry and aesthetic harmony. The dial now features a European date display, with the day at 9 o’clock, the date at 12 o'clock and the month at 3 o’clock. The week numbers are printed on the inner bezel as in previous perpetual calendar models. However, now the first week of the year (“1”) appears at 12 o’clock (instead of week 52). Following the same logic, “Monday” and “1” have been aligned at 12 o’clock in their respective subdial to mark the start of the week and the first day of the month.
The dial also incorporates a patented progressive date display at 12 o’clock. To enhance readability, the Audemars Piguet watchmakers developed a date wheel with 31 custom-shaped teeth, varying in size to adapt to the width of the digits and enhance readability.
To achieve perfect symmetry with the subdial at 3 o’clock, which displays the month and leap year, a 24-hour indicator has been added to the day subdial at 9 o’clock.
A no-correction zone, marked in red between 9 PM and 3 AM, indicates when the watch should not be adjusted. If the user attempts to set the watch during this period, the date does not update, but there is no risk of damaging the movement.
The moon phase, featuring a realistic depiction of the moon based on a NASA photograph, remains positioned at 6 o’clock as in previous references. However, the full moon is now centred on the 12 o’clock axis, enhancing the dial’s overall balance.
With selfwinding Calibre 7121 as its base, Calibre 7138 beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a power reserve of minimum 55 hours, a major improvement compared to the 40 hours of its predecessor Calibre 5135, marking its final appearance on the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” limited edition ref. 26585XT.
Calibre 7138 also builds on the patented innovations of Calibre 5133 launched in 2018 with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin RD#2, which incorporated all perpetual calendar functions in one single layer within the movement.
Finishes include Côtes de Genève, satin-brushing, circular graining and satin, snailing as well as chamfering, all visible on the caseback side.
Calibre 7138 makes its debut with one Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet and two Royal Oak models, all available in 41 mm.
The absence of correctors on the side of the case reinforces the refinement of the three models as well as their water resistance, which has been increased to 50 metres / 165 feet for the Royal Oak models and 30 metres / 100 feet for the Code 11.59, compared to the 20 metres / 66 feet rate of the previous perpetual calendar models offered in the two collections
The Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar ref. 26494BC.OO.D350KB.01 comes in a 41 mm x 10.6 mm case crafted from white gold and framing an embossed dial in smoked blue PVD shades.
The dial is complemented by 18-carat white gold luminescent hands, white gold hour-markers and white calendar indications for an elegant two-tone design. The timepiece is fitted on a blue rubber-coated strap with calfskin lining matching the hue of the dial, decorated with a textile motif.
The first Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41 mm, ref. 26674ST.OO.1320ST.01, combines a 41 mm x 9.5 mm stainless steel case and bracelet with a blue PVD Grande Tapisserie dial with matching subdials and inner bezel. The dial is enhanced by 18-carat white gold hands and hour-markers, all filled with luminescent material.
The second Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41 mm, ref. 26674SG.OO.1320SG.01, features case and bracelet in 18-carat sand gold, a precious alloy combining gold with copper and palladium, introduced in the Royal Oak collection in 2024.
The timepiece is adorned with a Grande Tapisserie dial, subdials and inner bezel, all in the same sand gold shade, obtained by galvanic treatment.
The three models have a sapphire caseback that reveals Calibre 7138 and its openworked oscillating weight in 22-carat pink gold.
Each of the three models is available in a 150-piece limited edition that, while visually identical to the collection models, features special details, including a vintage “Audemars Piguet” signature in the moon-phase subdial at 6 o’clock.
The sapphire caseback frame is also engraved with the commemorative “150” logo and “1 of 150 pieces.
Prices start at €110,700 / US$109,300 for the Royal Oak ref. 26674ST in stainless steel. audemarspiguet.com
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