Today marks the anniversary of the Apollo 11 lunar landing—the historic 1969 mission that cemented the Omega Speedmaster’s status as the "Moonwatch." Following our weekend feature tracing the technical evolution of this legendary chronograph, today we turn our attention from horological history to current production.
To mark the occasion, we present a hands-on review of the latest addition to the core collection: the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional with an inverted panda dial.
When Omega introduced this high-contrast execution earlier this year, it marked a notable addition to the core Moonwatch collection.
While contrasting panda layouts have appeared on the 42 mm Moonwatch in the past—most notably on sought-after limited or regional editions like the 2004 Apollo 11 35th Anniversary, the 2005 Gemini IV, the 2017 Speedy Tuesday, and the 2020 Tokyo Olympics edition—this release marks the first time an inverted panda step dial has been integrated into permanent, unrestricted production.
By making this motorsport-inspired layout a standard option alongside the classic monochromatic model, Omega offers enthusiasts an expressive alternative without the hurdles of limited availability.
Having spent extended time with the watch on the wrist, the immediate takeaway is how the white totalizers reshape the visual balance of the asymmetric case.
Where the traditional matte black dial absorbs light and relies on understated depth, the stark dual-layer contrast sharpens legibility and gives the watch an even sportier presence.
In the following review, accompanied by our original hands-on photography, we take a closer look at the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Black and White in stainless steel (Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004), examining its dial execution, case construction and movement to see how this high-contrast version fits within today's Moonwatch collection.
The watch offers a striking, high-contrast look thanks to its dual-layer step dial: the upper plate is finished in polished black lacquer with rhodium-plated subdial frames, while the subdial bases are finished in contrasting white varnish.
The applied Ω logo, rather than a printed one, adds further depth to the dial under direct light.
The inverted aesthetic is reinforced by a white-printed minute track on the main dial and black-printed tracks within the subdials.
The layout remains classic Speedmaster geometry, with chronograph minutes and hours counters at 3 and 6 o'clock respectively, and running seconds at 9 o'clock.
All hands and hour markers are rhodium-plated.
The central minutes and seconds hands are subtly domed at their tips to follow the bevel of the step dial, while the counterweight of the central seconds hand features a refined teardrop shape rather than the flat profile of past generations.
Super-LumiNova is applied across the central hands and indices, ensuring high readability in low-light conditions.
The case follows the architecture of the current Moonwatch generation introduced in 2021.
Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the 42 mm asymmetrical case features signature twisted lyre lugs, integrated crown guards, flat-capped chronograph pushers, and a double-bevel caseback.
Differing from the classic Hesalite and sapphire Moonwatch models equipped with aluminium bezels, the steel bezel here features a durable black ceramic insert displaying a tachymeter scale in white enamel.
It retains the historic "Dot Over Ninety" (DON) and "Diagonal to Seventy" markings, honoring early Speedmaster reference points prized by collectors.
The dial is protected by a box-shaped, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating on its inner surface.
Total thickness measures 13.54 mm, making it only slightly taller than the standard sapphire-sandwich Moonwatch at 13.18 mm. Water resistance is maintained at 5 bar (approximately 50 metres / 165 feet).
Turning the watch over, the sapphire crystal caseback offers an unobstructed view of the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, the manual-wind evolution of the long-standing Calibre 1861.
First introduced in 2019 for the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition, Calibre 3861 incorporates non-ferrous alloys, a Co-Axial escapement, and a silicon balance spring.
These upgrades enable Master Chronometer certification, subjecting the fully cased watch to rigorous testing by METAS for precision, power reserve, and magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss.
Operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), Calibre 3861 delivers significantly improved chronometric performance, with an average daily rate of 0/+5 seconds compared to the +10/-1 seconds specified for its predecessor 1861. It also increases the power reserve to 50 hours.
The movement also offers a hacking seconds function, allowing the balance wheel to stop when the crown is pulled for accurate time setting.
In accordance with the 3 Hz operational frequency, the dial's track is split by 3 divisions per second, aligning mechanical beat frequency precisely with visual readout capability.
On the wrist, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Black and White is fitted with the current five-arched-link bracelet, featuring an alternating pattern of satin-brushed and polished surfaces.
The links are secured using a screw-and-pin construction rather than the friction pins employed on earlier generations.
The clasp features a satin-finished cover decorated with vertical grooves and a polished Omega logo.
Measuring 15 mm at the buckle (tapering from 20 mm at the lugs), it integrates oval pushers and Omega's tool-free comfort-release extension system, allowing for quick micro-adjustments as wrist size fluctuates throughout the day.
For visual reference, the wrist featured in our accompanying photography measures 17.8 cm (7 inches).
Ultimately, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Black and White does not aim to replace the iconic monochromatic model. Instead, it sits alongside it as a sportier, highly legible alternative.
By bringing this two-tone graphic layout—once restricted to rare anniversary or regional editions—into standard production, Omega makes a previously exclusive aesthetic available as part of the permanent collection, without requiring collectors to navigate scarcity or secondary-market premiums.
While the standard black model offers classic space-age utility and the recent white dial variant presents a bright, uniform aesthetic, this inverted panda execution delivers a distinct motorsport edge. Its dual-layer contrast enhances immediate legibility while honouring the chronograph's historic racing roots.
Delivered with a five-year warranty and METAS Master Chronometer certification, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 42 mm Black and White in stainless steel (Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004) is priced at €10,300 / US$10,400. omegawatches.com
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