Panerai looks directly to its naval heritage with two new hand-wound models that channel the exact spirit of the instruments developed for the Italian Navy during the 1950s and 1960s.
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2026, the Luminor PAM01735 in stainless steel and the Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629 draw heavy inspiration from the architecture of the historic Ref. 6152/1, updating the blueprint with modern material innovations and manufacturing techniques.
Both watches retain the imposing 47 mm dimensions that characterised Panerai’s early military instruments. Their cushion-shaped cases, integrated lugs, and signature crown-protecting bridge remain entirely faithful to the layout that originally established the Luminor’s identity.
A domed sapphire crystal mimics the warm visual effect of the acrylic crystals used on vintage references while drastically improving scratch resistance.
Visible through the sapphire caseback is the hand-wound P.3000 calibre. Developed and manufactured entirely in-house, this movement measures 5.3 mm thick and features a large 16½-ligne architecture inspired by the oversized calibres historically chosen for the brand’s military contracts.
Operating at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), it incorporates twin barrels that provide a 3-day (72-hour) power reserve. It also offers a practical quick-change hour function, allowing the hour hand to be adjusted independently in one-hour increments without disrupting the minutes.
The Panerai Luminor PAM01735 offers the more traditional take on Panerai’s legacy. Its polished steel case contrasts beautifully with a brushed crown-protecting bridge and a brushed sapphire caseback frame.
The dial adopts a matte, grainy finish with an ivory-toned gradient effect. This specific hue is inspired by the "tropical" ageing seen on vintage Panerai watches, where dark dials gradually developed warmer brown and cream tones over decades of UV exposure.
Executed in the brand's classic sandwich construction, the dial features beige Super-LumiNova beneath the upper cut-out plate, vintage-style double pencil hands, and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock.
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet), the watch is fitted with a dark brown calf leather strap with beige stitching and includes an additional black rubber strap.
The reference PAM01735 is priced at €12,100.
The Panerai Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629 takes a more technical approach, combining the historic 1950s silhouette with a highly advanced material utilized by Panerai for the very first time.
Produced as a limited edition of 100 pieces, its 47 mm case, bezel, crown-protecting bridge, and locking lever are entirely crafted from forged titanium.
Obtained by bonding different grades of titanium under extreme heat and pressure, this engineering process creates a distinctive, wave-like surface pattern with varying shades of grey, ensuring that no two cases look exactly alike.
Beyond its unique aesthetic character, forged titanium offers exceptional corrosion resistance while remaining approximately 40% lighter than standard stainless steel.
An anthracite sun-brushed sandwich dial complements the textured case, creating a subtle play of light that enhances visual depth. Like its steel counterpart, the PAM01629 is water-resistant to 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet).
It comes delivered on a light beige calf scamosciato (suede) strap with matching stitching and a trapezoidal titanium buckle, along with an additional black rubber strap.
Presented in a dedicated cherry-blue wooden presentation box, the limited-edition PAM01629 is priced at €23,000. panerai.com
DISCOVER MORE WATCHES & WONDERS 2026 NOVELTIES
COMMENTS