When two watchmakers from Le Locle, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, decided to move to Switzerland’s German-speaking north in 1904, they brought with them a vision that was, at the time, quite counter-cultural: fusing traditional hand craftsmanship with modern industrial efficiency.
This mindset allowed Oris to create high-quality, reliable timepieces at accessible prices, an independent spirit that remains at the core of the Hölstein-based Maison to this day.
Perhaps no watch embodies this legacy more clearly than the Big Crown Pointer Date. Born in 1938 as a specialised tool for aviators, it was defined by its oversized crown—designed for easy adjustment while wearing thick leather flight gloves—and its signature date display, indicated by a central pointer hand rather than a traditional aperture.
The latest iteration of this icon, the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye”, dives deep into the archives to revive a dial motif that first appeared in Oris catalogues as early as the 1910s.
Characterised by a two-tone, concentric layout, the “bullseye” design enjoyed significant popularity in the mid-20th century before making its last appearance in 1998.
Following our initial introduction to this new release, we have now had the opportunity to take a closer look at its design, technical specifications, and overall character through live photographs and hands-on impressions.
The watch comes in a 38 mm case crafted from 316L stainless steel, a high-grade alloy valued for its corrosion resistance and the high lustre it achieves after polishing.
With a total thickness of 12.20 mm (including the crystal) and a lug-to-lug distance of 44.92 mm, the proportions feel well balanced.
A key design element of the multi-piece case is the fluted bezel, which frames the sapphire crystal. The crystal is domed on both sides and treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface.
Another signature element—and the watch’s namesake—is the oversized crown. Embossed with the Oris logo, it is screwed down to help ensure water resistance to 5 bar (50 metres / 165 feet).
In its default position, the crown is securely tightened against the case. Once unscrewed, it allows for manual winding in its first position. Pulling it out to the next notch enables quick-set date adjustment, while the final position is used for time-setting.
The crown’s deep fluting offers excellent tactile grip, making it particularly easy to operate.
Thanks to its compact size and curved lugs, the watch fits most wrists comfortably.
This sense of comfort is further enhanced by the strap, a black leather band produced by Swiss sustainable deer leather specialist Cervo Volante.
Each year, around 15,000 wild red deer are culled in Switzerland to manage populations and protect the countryside. Cervo Volante transforms these skins—which would otherwise be burned as waste—into sustainable accessories using 100 per cent vegetable tanning processes.
The strap is fitted with a stainless-steel pin buckle and equipped with quick-change lug bars for easy replacement. For reference, the wrist in our photos measures 17.8 cm / 7 inches in circumference.
The dial is defined by a striking “bullseye” configuration, with concentric circles creating a sophisticated sense of depth.
At the centre sits a cool grey circular sector, surrounded by a deep black ring that houses the Arabic numerals.
This black section is framed by a crisp white railway minute track at its outer edge, ensuring precise time-telling at a glance.
The numerals and cathedral-style hands are treated with a blend of Super-LumiNova C1 and C3.
This combination is a "best of both worlds" solution: C1 is used for daytime aesthetics, providing a clean white look, while C3 ensures night-time performance with a powerful green glow.
Beyond this monochrome core, the dial is animated by a vivid red date ring at the periphery, paired with a red-tipped pointer date hand.
Notably, the pointer hand remains exceptionally slender as it traverses the dial, widening only at its red crescent tip to keep the central “bullseye” visually uncluttered.
At steep angles, the curvature of the crystal creates a subtle magnification effect, causing the red date ring to shimmer slightly, an optical nuance that enhances the watch’s vintage character.
Powering the display is the Oris Calibre 754, an automatic movement based on the reliable Sellita SW200-1.
Visible through the mineral glass caseback, the movement features the brand’s iconic red rotor, a registered trademark since 2002. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours.
This well-established calibre provides the torque required to drive the four central hands while maintaining a stable rate.
It also includes a stop-second (hacking) function and an instantaneous date mechanism, ensuring the pointer hand advances crisply to the next date at midnight.
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” (ref. 754 7779 4061-07 5 19 25) is priced at CHF 1,950 / €1,950.
With this fresh new model, Oris delivers an attractive interpretation of one of its most enduring designs.
The watch balances historical references with contemporary proportions, pairing a distinctive vintage-inspired dial with a compact, wearable case and a proven automatic movement.
Built on the established Big Crown Pointer Date formula, the “Bullseye” offers clear legibility and straightforward functionality while remaining firmly anchored within the collection’s heritage and staying true to Oris’s mission: providing high-quality, independent watchmaking at an accessible price point. oris.ch
Nice pictures and useful information. I didn’t know about the C1/C3 distinction. Too often, acronyms and abbreviations are used without any explanation. Thanks.
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