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Jaquet Droz - Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée

Paillonné is a method of enamelling that involves covering ornamental paillons (tiny motifs or paillettes, cut from gold leaf) with fondant (translucent enamel). Carried on by Jaquet Droz, this 300 years old art is extremely rare.

The brand based in La Chaux-de-Fonds has just presented two masterpieces that combine this technique with another decorative art special to Jaquet Droz, the one used in the Grand Feu enamel dials.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée

First, guilloché work is done on a gold dial. It is then covered in translucent coloured enamel that lets the guilloché patterns shine through. Next, several layers of enamel are applied, each one individually fired in the oven. Every new layer of enamel and firing can introduce cracks or flaws so you can imagine how much dexterity is required by the artisans creating these small works of art.

Then, dainty motifs cut from a thin gold leaf, the paillons (or strips), are placed by hand one by one to create a figure. Once the design is done, the figures are covered with another translucent layer of enamel and fired in the same oven.

Jaquet Droz Paillonnée technique

The first model, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Paillonnée ref. J003033437 uses the Fleur de Lys ornamental design. Emblems of a very long heraldic tradition, fleurs de lys are still found from France to Missouri, by way of England, Finland, Germany and Spain. The 43 mm x 12.06 mm red gold case houses the self-winding Calibre 2663 beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 68 hours.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Paillonnée J003033437

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Paillonnée J003033437

Similar performances are delivered by the 2653.P automatic movement that powers the smaller (35 mm x 10.80 mm) Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée ref. J005003244. The red gold case of this model is set with 232 diamonds for a total of 1.23 carats.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée J005003244

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée J005003244

The dial is embellished by the Fleur de Vie motif. Representing the birth and growth of all living things on Earth, this symbol  is comprised of overlapping interwoven circles defining a perfectly proportioned shape that was even a subject of Leonardo da Vinci's writing.

Matched to rolled-edge hand-made blue alligator straps, these two creations are limited editions (Numerus Clausus) of just 8 pieces with prices of Swiss Francs 43,200 for the Grande Seconde Paillonnée ref. J003033437 and Swiss Francs 45,900 for the Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée ref. J005003244. jaquet-droz.com

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Time and Watches | The watch blog: Jaquet Droz - Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
Jaquet Droz - Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
Jaquet Droz just presented two masterpieces that combines the paillonne technique with Grand Feu enamel dials. These two creations are limited editions of just 8 pieces with prices of CHF 43,200 for the Grande Seconde Paillonnée ref. J003033437 and CHF 45,900 for the Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée ref. J005003244.
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Time and Watches | The watch blog
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