Founded in 1904 in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris has built its identity around mechanical watches that combine practical functionality with an independent approach to watchmaking.
The Maison’s history is closely connected to the development of reliable, everyday timepieces, with the Big Crown Pointer Date standing among its most recognisable designs.
First introduced in 1938 as a watch for aviators, the Big Crown was conceived around two distinctive features: an oversized crown that could be operated while wearing flight gloves and a date indication displayed by a central pointer hand.
Almost nine decades later, these elements remain at the heart of the collection, which continues to evolve while retaining its original design language.
Just unveiled by Oris, the Big Crown Pointer Date Oxblood is a variation of this established design, distinguished by an oxblood red dial that gives the familiar configuration a new character.
We had the opportunity to preview the watch and are now pleased to share our live photographs and hands-on impressions.
This version of the Big Crown Pointer Date is housed in a 40 mm multi-piece case crafted from 316L stainless steel, an alloy widely used in watchmaking for its corrosion resistance and suitability for polishing.
Its flowing lines and curved lugs give the case a fluid profile, while a fluted bezel frames the domed sapphire crystal, which has an anti-reflective coating on its inner surface.
With a thickness of 12 mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.50 mm, the Oxblood has well-balanced proportions.
On the wrist, it sits comfortably, with the curved lugs helping the case follow the wrist's shape.
This sense of comfort is complemented by the H-link stainless steel bracelet, whose links alternate brushed and polished surfaces.
We particularly liked the way its construction integrates with the case, giving the watch a more substantial presence than the traditional leather-strap versions of the Big Crown Pointer Date.
An Oris-developed triple folding clasp with double safety push-buttons secures the bracelet. The lug width is 20 mm.
For reference, the wrist shown in our photographs measures approximately 17.8 cm (7 inches).
The oversized stainless steel crown is screw-down, contributing to the watch's water resistance of 5 bar.
Its pronounced fluting provides a secure grip when winding and setting the watch, while the Oris logo is engraved on its outer surface.
The oxblood red dial is the most distinctive element of this version. Its deep, warm tone gives the watch a different visual character while preserving the familiar Big Crown Pointer Date layout.
Applied Arabic numerals stand above the dial surface, adding depth and definition to the display.
Super-LumiNova is applied to the central hour and minute hands, the raised Arabic numerals and the small triangular hour markers along the outer track, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions.
The date is indicated by a fourth central hand with a red tip, which points to the date scale running around the dial's periphery.
This pointer-date arrangement is one of the collection's defining features, dispensing with a conventional date aperture in favour of a scale that makes use of the entire circumference of the dial. The red tip also provides a clear visual reference to the date indication.
Turning the watch over, the stainless steel caseback is secured by screws and incorporates a see-through mineral glass window, offering a view of the movement.
Powering the watch is the Oris Calibre 754, an automatic mechanical movement measuring 25.60 mm in diameter. Based on the Sellita SW200-1 architecture, it operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and contains 26 jewels. Its power reserve is approximately 41 hours.
The movement is visible through the caseback, with the red oscillating weight providing an especially noticeable detail. Its colour brings a vivid accent to the movement view and adds to the visual appeal of the watch when seen from the back.
The calibre drives central hours, minutes and seconds, together with the pointer-date display. The date mechanism provides an instantaneous change, while the movement also incorporates a date corrector, fine timing adjustment and a stop-second function.
Once the screw-down crown has been released, it can be used for manual winding. Pulling it out to the first setting position allows the date to be adjusted, while the second position stops the seconds hand and enables precise time-setting.
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Oxblood, reference 01 754 7798 4038-07 8 20 06, is priced at CHF 2,000 / €2,000 / US$2,400.
We particularly enjoyed this version of the Big Crown Pointer Date. The oxblood dial gives the familiar design a strong visual identity, while the stainless steel H-link bracelet changes its character from the more traditional leather-strap configurations.
Together with the oversized crown and the distinctive pointer-date display, it makes for an appealing interpretation of one of Oris's best-known designs. oris.ch
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