Panerai brings one of its defining 1990s case designs to a new 42 mm format with the Luminor PAM01710, PAM01711 and PAM01714.
The three references draw on the Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A and Luminor Marina Militare Ref. 5218-202/A presented in 1993, adapting the angular architecture of those early civilian-era models to a more compact case while retaining the utilitarian character associated with the Luminor.
The original design emerged from Panerai’s transition from military supplier to civilian watchmaker.
The references introduced in the 1990s evolved from the 47 mm proportions of the earlier military watches into a 44 mm format, while adopting a more streamlined monobloc case construction.
Compared with the cushion-shaped cases of the 1960s, the design was defined by sharper lines, solid lugs, more pronounced edges and the curved crown-protection bridge integrated into the profile of the case.
The three new models retain these characteristics while reducing the diameter to 42 mm for the first time.
Measuring 13.8 mm thick and weighing 126 grams, the polished and brushed steel case of the PAM01710 and PAM01711 preserves the direct geometry of the 1990s design.
The PAM01714 uses the same proportions in a steel case treated with DLC, with the coating extending to the bezel and buckle.
Inside all three watches is Panerai’s automatic P.980 calibre. Measuring 4.2 mm thick, the movement comprises 177 components and 23 jewels and operates at 28,800 alternations per hour, or 4 Hz, with a power reserve of three days delivered by its single barrel.
A traversing balance wheel bridge supports the regulating organ, while an Incabloc anti-shock device provides protection against shocks.
The movement also incorporates a stop-seconds function, allowing the seconds hand to be halted when the crown is pulled out for precise time setting. The P.980 is tested in six positions to assess its performance across different orientations.
Concealed by a screwed, closed case back, the movement is finished with horizontally brushed upper plates, while the open-worked oscillating weight carries a blue “Officine Panerai” engraving and features chamfered surfaces with horizontal brushing and diamond finishing.
Water resistance is rated at 50 bar, equivalent to approximately 500 metres. Panerai subjects the watches to pressure testing at its Manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, using combined air and water testing. The tests are conducted at pressures exceeding the guaranteed rating by 25% to assess the integrity of the case and its seals.
The dials continue another of Panerai’s established functional signatures: large printed numerals and hour markers treated with Super-LumiNova for visibility in low-light conditions.
The graphics are printed on a single dial plate, with the luminous material applied over them in successive stages. This creates a slightly raised surface and gives the numerals a subtle three-dimensional appearance.
All three references omit a date display and retain the small seconds at 9 o’clock, an arrangement closely associated with Panerai. The configuration originally served a practical purpose, allowing military divers to confirm immediately that the watch was still running.
The PAM01710 combines its polished and brushed steel case with a matte black dial, ecru printing and ivory-coloured luminous material, and is paired with a beige canvas strap. The PAM01711 uses the same steel case with a matte green dial and matching green canvas strap.
The PAM01714 combines its DLC-treated steel case with a matte blue dial and beige-coloured luminous material, complemented by a blue canvas strap.
The darker treatment of the case emphasises the angular geometry of the 1990s design, while the DLC coating provides increased resistance to wear, abrasion and corrosion.
The canvas straps have been developed specifically for the three watches and are secured with leather reinforcement around the holes.
They use Panerai’s 22/20 strap dimensions and can be exchanged for other compatible alligator, calf, rubber, textile and bi-material straps equipped with the PAM Click Release System.
The three references are not limited editions and are delivered in Panerai’s standard packaging made from recycled paper, including a travel pouch.
The Panerai Luminor PAM01710 and PAM01711 retail at €6,500 each, while the DLC-coated PAM01714 retails at €7,500. panerai.com
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