Following the rose gold version that we presented last year, Daniel Roth expands its Tourbillon line with a platinum edition.
Drawing on the 1988 Tourbillon reference 2187/C187, the Tourbillon Platinum honours Daniel Roth’s preferred complication and his commitment to the principles of haute horlogerie while evolving its aesthetic through the use of new noble metal combinations and refined contemporary finishes.
The revival of Daniel Roth began in 2023 with the Tourbillon and Extra Plat, the two complications closest to Mr. Roth. Both debuted as 20-piece souscription editions in yellow gold with Clou de Paris guilloché, before entering regular production in rose gold with pinstripe guilloché.
Platinum has, until now, been absent from the latest chapter in the history of Daniel Roth.
The Tourbillon Platinum marks the introduction of this noble metal to the current collection, a material appreciated by collectors for its extraordinary heft and rarity.
Beyond its rarity, platinum is harder to work with than gold. The machining of platinum components requires specialised tooling and more frequent intervention by the machinist. As a result, a platinum case can take up to three times as long to produce as a case in 18k gold.
True to the design and spirit of the C187, the Tourbillon Platinum adopts the double-ellipse case, a foundational element of the Daniel Roth aesthetic.
Originally conceived by Mr. Roth himself in 1988, the unusual shape, combining square and circular elements, offers an ideal stage for the large tourbillon.
All the critical details of the original double-ellipse case have been faithfully recreated, and this historical fidelity goes beyond surface appearance.
In a nod to the 1988 original, the longest of the seconds hand’s three arms passes through a discreet channel on the inside of the case. This is a private detail that ensures continuity between past and present.
That said, the Tourbillon Platinum is not a mere reproduction. For the current production, the signature case has received subtle refinements while remaining largely indistinguishable from the original.
The lugs, still meticulously hand-soldered to the case middle, now arch downward to improve ergonomics on the wrist.
Measuring 38.6 mm by 35.5 mm, the case is just 9.2 mm thick—slightly slimmer than the original C187—thanks to the in-house manufacture calibre DR001.
Protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial is crafted from solid white gold and finished in an anthracite hue.
This material provides an ideal canvas for Daniel Roth’s linear guilloché, applied by hand using a straight-line engine.
The chapter ring for the hours and minutes is made from 925 sterling silver, as are the tri-sectioned seconds scale and the iconic moustache elements on either side, which bear the Daniel Roth brand name and the individual watch number.
All dial components are produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which is equipped with a dedicated guillochage workshop featuring antique engine-turning machines restored to full working order.
A single dial for the Tourbillon Platinum can take up to three days to complete, engraved line by line by a single master guillocheur. The smallest error at any stage requires the dial to be discarded.
Unlike the Tourbillon Souscription, which featured a solid caseback, the Tourbillon Platinum reveals its DR001 movement through a sapphire crystal, offering a clear view of its refined finishing.
The calibre displays the hallmarks of traditional haute horlogerie, including black-polished steel, rounded anglage, perlage, and finely executed Côtes de Genève, which visually echo the linear guilloché of the dial.
Three polished gold chatons secure the jewels of the gear train, adding another layer of traditional craftsmanship.
The DR001 beats at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers an 80-hour power reserve. Compared to the original, the movement is also thinner, contributing to a more elegant fit on the wrist.
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Platinum is priced at CHF 185,000, excluding sales taxes. danielroth.com
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