Hanhart has presented the 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1, a 300-piece edition that revisits one of the most recognisable watches associated with the American actor and racing driver.
Based on the 417 ES, the pilot’s chronograph that McQueen wore both on and away from the racetrack, the new edition retains the historical model’s 39 mm proportions while adding contemporary materials and a hand-wound flyback movement.
The connection between McQueen and the Hanhart 417 ES is documented in numerous photographs, from his motorcycle racing years to his time in California. In 1964, McQueen competed for the United States team at the International Six Days Trial in Erfurt, riding a modified Triumph through six days of competition in the Thuringian Forest.
He later competed in the Baja 1000 and was frequently photographed wearing his Hanhart chronograph. For some motorcycle events, he raced under the name “Harvey Mushman”, allowing him to participate without attracting the attention that accompanied his film career.
Steve McQueen with his wife Neile Adams: Globe Photos / ZUMA Press
The original 417 ES was developed in the mid-1950s as a pilot’s chronograph for the German Bundeswehr. The abbreviation ES refers to Edelstahl, the German word for stainless steel, while the design prioritised legibility, robustness and ease of operation.
The new edition follows those proportions with a 39 mm stainless steel case measuring 13.3 mm in height, including its highly domed sapphire crystal, and 46 mm from lug to lug.
Water resistance is rated at 10 ATM (100 metres / 330 feet).
The matte black dial carries the historical Hanhart logo together with Steve McQueen’s signature, positioned discreetly at 6 o’clock.
The hands and numerals are coated with Super-LumiNova in a Light Old Radium tone, giving the dial a warm appearance inspired by the aged luminous material found on vintage watches.
The minute and seconds hands have curved-down tips designed to reduce parallax errors. A fluted bidirectional bezel with a red insert and the characteristic red chronograph pusher complete the design.
The red pusher has been part of Hanhart’s chronograph identity for decades. One well-known story attributes the colour to a pilot’s wife who painted the pusher of her husband’s watch with red nail polish as a reminder to return safely.
More practically, the contrasting colour also helped prevent accidental operation of the chronograph reset function. The new edition acknowledges the story in its presentation, with a small bottle of red nail polish included in the box.
Behind the screw-down sapphire case back is Hanhart’s hand-wound AMT5100 M calibre, based on the Sellita AMT platform. The movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and provides a power reserve of at least 58 hours.
Alongside the hours, minutes and small seconds, it offers a 30-minute chronograph counter and a flyback function, allowing the running chronograph to be reset and immediately restarted with a single operation. Hacking seconds are also provided for precise time setting.
Hanhart regulates each movement at its manufacture in Gütenbach according to its own accuracy standard, with an average daily rate between 0 and +8 seconds across six positions.
The historical connection extends to the way the watch is worn. Photographs of McQueen show his 417 ES fitted to a dark brown cuff strap, with the leather running continuously underneath the case.
The new edition follows this configuration with a padded dark brown Shell Cordovan strap produced by an Italian tannery. Shell Cordovan is made from the dense fibrous layer of the horse’s hindquarters and is traditionally vegetable-tanned, producing a smooth and durable leather with a natural lustre. The strap is secured by a pin buckle bearing Hanhart’s historical logo.
The 20 mm lug width also allows the watch to be fitted with the other straps available for the 417 ES 39 mm, including black, dark brown and light brown leather options, as well as Hanhart’s newer-generation stainless steel bracelet with tool-free micro-adjustment.
All are equipped with quick-release spring bars.
The presentation box contains a booklet, a numbered plaque, the red nail polish and a limited-edition card inspired by McQueen’s 1964 international FIM racing licence.
The card is signed by his grandchildren, Chase and Madison McQueen, who were involved in the development of the edition and approved the use of their grandfather’s signature on the dial. The reverse also carries the signature of the watchmaker who assembles the chronograph in Gütenbach.
The Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 is limited to 300 pieces worldwide. Reference H705L.210-2110 is supplied with the dark brown Shell Cordovan cuff strap and retails at €2,890 including German VAT. hanhart.com
Suggested reading:
COMMENTS