In 2023, TAG Heuer returned to its sailing heritage with the revival of the Skipper regatta chronograph within the modern Carrera “Glassbox” design.
That maritime tradition is now revisited through another historic reference point: the Carrera Chronograph Seafarer, a model inspired by the tide watches produced by Heuer in the mid-20th century.
The origins of this functionality date back to 1949, when Heuer developed a watch capable of indicating the times of high and low tide for the American sporting goods retailer Abercrombie & Fitch. Conceived by the company’s president Walter Haynes and refined by Heuer—with input from a young Jack Heuer, who helped improve the gear ratios for greater accuracy—the concept first appeared in the Heuer Solunar, soon followed by the chronograph version known as the Seafarer.
Variations of these tide-indicating watches, also sold under names such as Mareograph and Solunagraph, remained in the Abercrombie & Fitch catalogue until the mid-1970s. For more on this chapter of the brand’s development, see our "History of TAG Heuer" feature article.
More than seven decades after its first appearance, the tide indication returns in the new Carrera Chronograph Seafarer, built around the contemporary Carrera Glassbox architecture introduced in 2023.
The stainless steel case measures 42 mm in diameter with a thickness of 14.4 mm and a lug-to-lug length of 48.6 mm.
It combines brushed and polished finishes and is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment.
The distinctive Glassbox architecture, characterised by a curved dial flange beneath the crystal, enhances legibility and gives the watch its recognisable profile.
The champagne opalin dial features a beige flange carrying the 60-second scale and three counters arranged at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
At 3 o’clock is the 30-minute chronograph counter, while a small seconds display sits at 6 o’clock. The tide indicator occupies the subdial at 9 o’clock, combining teal blue and dark yellow tones.
These colours are inspired by the yacht Intrepid, winner of the 1967 America’s Cup, whose distinctive shade of teal influenced the design of the original Skipper chronograph created by Jack Heuer the following year.
Matching teal accents appear on the hour and minute hands as well as on the chronograph counter, while the applied indexes and hands are plated in 18-carat 3N yellow gold and treated with Super-LumiNova to ensure legibility in low light.
The screw-down sapphire caseback, engraved with TAG Heuer’s Victory Wreath, contributes to a water-resistance rating of 100 metres / 330 feet.
Through it, the in-house Calibre TH20-04 can be admired, an automatic chronograph movement developed specifically to incorporate the tide-indicator mechanism. Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it offers a power reserve of approximately 80 hours.
The movement uses a column wheel and vertical clutch to ensure smooth operation of the chronograph pushers, while the automatic winding system features a rotor shaped like the TAG Heuer shield.
The tide indicator itself is set using a dedicated push-button engraved “TIDE” at 9 o’clock. Pressing the button rotates the tide disc, which is divided into quadrants marked for high and low tide.
Once aligned with the known tide times for a specific location, the disc completes a full cycle every 29.53125 days, indicating when tides will reach their highest and lowest points. This function can assist sailors when planning departures from harbours or navigating tidal rivers and estuaries.
It is fitted with TAG Heuer’s seven-row stainless steel bracelet, a contemporary interpretation of the historic “beads of rice” design, combining brushed and polished links and secured by a folding clasp with double safety push-buttons.
Each watch is also delivered with an additional beige sports strap inspired by traditional boat rigging, featuring an Intrepid Teal lining and a stainless steel folding clasp.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer, reference CBS2016.EB0430, has a five-year warranty and a suggested retail price of CHF 8,300 / €8,800 / US$8,800. tagheuer.com
COMMENTS