Formex has marked its 25th anniversary in 2025 with the introduction of the complete Essence Ceramica collection, featuring the brand’s first fully ceramic case and bracelet.
The collection includes four classic full-dial executions drawn from Formex’s bestselling steel Essence range, along with the newly launched Essence Ceramica Dark Matter with a meteorite dial.
The foundation of the line is the 41 mm zirconium-oxide ceramic case, measuring approximately 11.8 mm in thickness.
This material, seven times harder than steel, is inherently scratch-proof, fade-resistant, amagnetic, and hypoallergenic.
Formex maximises these advantages by using contrasting finishes that highlight the material’s structural integrity.
Achieving crisp bevels, vertical brushing, and diamond-polished contours requires advanced diamond tooling and the specialised expertise of Formex’s sister companies: Dexel (cases and bracelets) and Cadranor (dials).
Integrating the Case Suspension System—a mechanism that uses springs to allow the inner case to move slightly and absorb shocks—into the rigid ceramic structure required extensive re-engineering to preserve strength, ergonomics, and shock protection.
Engineering a functional screw-down crown into the brittle ceramic case also demanded a dedicated process to ensure the tolerances required for 100 metres / 330 feet water resistance.
The full ceramic bracelet features links finished in a combination of brushing and diamond polishing, while its clasp offers a patented micro-adjustment of 5 mm in both directions while fully closed, setting a new standard for adaptability.
It also features the Interchangeable Strap Concept developed with Dexel, allowing tool-free switching to rubber or leather options fitted with Formex’s carbon-fibre deployant clasp.
The four full-dial models build on the familiar Essence identity through precisely CNC-milled horizontal grooves, applied indices, and hands with brushed surfaces and polished bevels.
The dials include Blue, wine-toned Gamaret, elegant Dégradé (warm brown tones), and high-contrast Arctic White lacquer.
The Essence Ceramica Dark Matter introduces a dial made from solid Muonionalusta iron meteorite. To create its unique look, the meteorite undergoes a dark-nickel electroplating process developed at Cadranor, which blackens the material while sharpening its naturally occurring Widmanstätten pattern, geometric crystalline structures formed only in space over millions of years.
The Dark Matter dial is engineered as a single solid component, enabling Formex to machine a fully formed, bevelled 6 o’clock date window, a rare technical feat.
Set against the jet-black ceramic case, the dial shifts from deep graphite to bright metallic flashes, maintaining legibility via gunmetal applied indices and hands.
Under the sapphire caseback of all ceramic models lies the Newton P092, a new movement co-designed with Soprod.
The calibre, developed over three years to Formex specifications, features a symmetrical 6–12 o’clock layout, placing the balance at 6 o’clock beneath a transverse bridge to enhance shock resistance. Operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the movement provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
To guarantee reliability, every Newton P092 undergoes independent Chronofiable endurance testing at Laboratoire Dubois and full COSC chronometer certification, proving its mechanical accuracy.
The full-dial Essence Ceramica COSC models on the ceramic bracelet are priced at CHF 2,990, underscoring Formex’s commitment to opening this level of ceramic watchmaking to a wider community.
The Essence Ceramica COSC “Dark Matter” is limited to a yearly production of 100 pieces and priced at CHF 4,150 on the full ceramic bracelet. formexwatch.com
If they release full ceramic in the 38 case size, there’s almost no chance I can resist.
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